Wood-Boo-Too installation...
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General Information
• Wood-Boo-Too™ flooring planks use an “innovative interlocking "click" floor system” technology for ease of installation and repairs. The planks can be clicked together simply, due to the unique shape of the tongue and groove. The floor floats and is installed without glue. You can walk on the floor during and immediately after the installation.
• Room humidity and temperature can vary according to the season, so it is vital that the floor is able to expand and contract. For this reason, make sure you leave a minimum expansion joint of 5/16" on all sides of the floor, around pipes, thresholds, under doors and around any fixed/stationary objects (floor vents, kitchen islands, etc.).
• Large rooms must have expansion joints every 40 feet width-wise to the planks and every 40 feet length-wise. We recommend having an expansion joint between different rooms (e.g. under the door). Expansion joints can be finished by means of a molding that is attached to the sub-floor.
Precautions
• Protect furniture and chair legs with proper felt or rubber caps.
• Avoid bringing dirt, water and sand indoors by providing a suitable floor mat at all outside doors. Use (office) chairs and seats with soft rubber wheels that are suitable for wood flooring and/or use a suitable desk mat.
• Ensure that humidity in the room IS always at least 50%. Use a humidifier if you need to.
Maintenance
• Never use wax or varnish coatings on the floor.
• For dry maintenance, we recommend using a micro-fiber duster (flipper) or vacuum cleaner.
• For slightly damp maintenance, we recommend using a urethane hardwood floor cleaner.
• Always wipe dry immediately until no more moisture is visible on the floor. The use of any oil-based cleaning products might damage your floor. For bevel edge products, we strongly recommend dry cleaning only.
• Do not use of any type of cleaning machine such as steam cleaners, wet mops or power cleaners.
• Wet maintenance IS absolutely forbidden. Remove any standing water immediately.
• To remove stubborn stains carefully, we recommend using acetone based fingernail polish remover. Never use scouring products!
• For surface scratches on your floor, Wood-Boo-Too™ recommends an almond stick, which is available at most flooring retailers.
Pre-Installation
• We recommend you purchase extra flooring; on average, a 10% (cut) waste factor is needed due to damaged pieces, miscalculation of area size, or if you incorrectly cut some pieces, and for any repairs in the future. REMEMBER: ALWAYS MEASURE TWICE! YOU CANNOT STRETCH OUR PRODUCT ONCE CUT.
• Carefully inspect all flooring planks before installation. Wood-Boo-Too™ carries a 100% replacement guarantee on any defective products exceeding 3% of the overall order purchased, PRIOR TO INSTALLATION.
• Wood-Boo-Too™ has a wear layer of natural wood. Color variations range with different species. Make sure that you work out of 3 to 4 boxes at a time to ensure proper color variation distribution throughout your floor.
• The floor materials must be acclimated (adjust) to the environment at least 72 hours prior to installation to ensure that the flooring is at room temperature.
• Room humidity and temperature can vary according to the season, so it is vital that the floor is able to expand and contract. Relative humidity should never exceed 65% or go below 35%; this will ensure that your floor’s expansion and contraction is held to a minimum. If humidity exceeds 65% for prolonged periods of time, it is likely that your floor will expand and may cup or buckle. If less than 35% relative humidity for a prolonged period of time, it is likely that your floor will shrink (contract) and will affect the wood wear layer in that it could crack and may cause your floor to separate due to shrinkage in the plank.
• TOOLS REQUIRED FOR INSTALLATION:
5/16” shims, pry bar, rubber mallet, hammer, tape measure, pencil, chop saw, table saw, jigsaw (for circular cuts around pipes, etc.). You may use a drill and/or hammer to secure transitional track if needed.
Preparation
• Sub-floor must be cleaned and dry and make sure all work area debris is removed.
• Make sure sub-floor is flat. No more variance than 1/8” of an inch for any ten-foot radius. It is vital that you use a floor patch to smooth any unevenness in the sub-floor. Use floor patch manufacturer’s recommendations for drying time before installation of flooring.
• If patching is required, once cure time is met on wood substrate with wood sub-floors, 15-lb roofing felt paper can be installed. (This is a good vapor barrier) Follow manufacturer’s instructions for installation of felt paper.
• Wood-Boo-Too™ has the optional cork backing attached. If this product is used, proceed with the installation. • If you do not choose the optional cork backing, an underlayment such as Whisper Walk” or “Floor Muffler” is recommended.
• For concrete sub floors, patch requirements are the same as above for wood. Where high moisture or calcium chloride exists, use 6mil Visqueen (plastic) in lieu of felt paper. Other vapor barrier products are available. Let the vapor barrier run up the walls a bit before cutting to size to assure adequate coverage. Make sure it is pulled tight and flat and that all seams are taped together and fastened around the parameter of the room. The same applies for the underlayment as stated above.
Installation
• You are now ready to begin installation. It is best to use the longest, straightest wall in the room as your starting point. Once that is determined, you need to cut off the tongue to ensure the flooring is held tight to the temporary spacers. IT IS VITAL THAT THE TEMPORARY SPACERS ARE REMOVED AFTER INSTALLATION OF THE FLOOR IS COMPLETE!
• The first row should be started with a full plank down the length of the wall. The second row should start with a half plank. The third row will start with a ¾ plank. The fourth row should start with a ¼ plank. The fifth row should start with a full plank again. By this time you have created a very secure bridging effect. Beginning with the 6th row, repeat as follows: ¾, ½, ¼, full. Repeat this pattern until floor is completed, until you come to the other end of the room. PLEASE NOTE: To minimize waste factor, use the cut off piece on the other side of the room. They will vary in length but will minimize the overall waste of the project. These are typically called starters and finishers.
• Start in a corner by placing the first panel with its trimmed side facing the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 8-12mm (5/16-3/8”) between the wall and the flooring.
• To attach your second panel, lower and lock the end tongue of the second panel into the end groove of the first panel. Line up edges carefully. The panels should be flat to the floor.
• Continue connecting the first row until you reach the last full panel. Fit the last panel by rotating the panel 180° with the pattern sides upward. Place beside row, mark and then saw off excess. When using a handsaw cut on the decorative surface. If you are using a jig or circular saw, cut with the decorative side down to avoid chipping. Attach as described above.
• Begin the next row with the cut piece from the previous row to stagger the pattern. Pieces should be a minimum of 20cm (8”) long and joint offset should be at least 40cm (16”). To start your second row, tilt and push the side tongue of the panel into the side groove of the very first panel at about 30°. When lowered, the plank will click into place.
• Attach the second panel of the new row first on the long side. Tilt and push this panel as close as possible to the previous row at 30°. Make sure edges are lined up. Lower panel to the floor, locking the end tongue into the end groove of the first panel. Continue laying remaining panels in this manner.
• To fit the last row, layout a panel on top of the previous row. With the tongue to the wall, lay another panel upside down on the one t o be measured and use it as a ruler. Don’t forget to allow room for spacers. Cut the panel and attach into position. • When installing planks under existing door frames/trim, cut the frame and trim to the thickness of the floor, then slide floor in underneath and pull back to interlock the floor, maintaining a 5/16” margin under the trim and the frame.
• TRIM: Transitional trim such as t molding, stair nosing, reducers and thresholds fasten to U-shaped track. Where transitions are required maintain a 5/16” gap from the Ushaped interlocking track and when complete, press the transition piece into the channel for a finished look, allowing for expansion under the trim.
FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT US AT: sales@woodboo.com